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A change of plans
Have you ever had a dream, a real, warm, fuzzy dream? One that makes you smile in your sleep. Nothing particularly spectacular about it, but one that just gives you a sense of calm? That’s the kind of dream I was having when our 4am alarm went off one June morning. My wife and I had a flight to catch from San Diego, our home, to Colorado that day. I sat up sleepily in bed as she exclaimed “oh my God they cancelled our f***ing flight! ‘Please proceed to the counter at the airport. Ughhhhhhh’”. She lamented and let a huge groan out into her pillow. “Let’s just do what the email says, hopefully they can get us on another flight” I said. We both already had a sinking suspicion that we werent going to be getting on a plane today, but neither of us wanted to jinx it. So we both got out of bed, loaded our luggage and climbing gear into the uber i scheduled for us the day before, and headed to the airport. After arriving at the airport, we quickly learned that United was canceling thousands of flights accross the country, a “domino effect” the man at the desk described it. We stood in the customer service line and I asked “how far of a drive is colorado? Is there anything along the way we could climb?”. I was desperate. I had been working months of overtime with no PTO for a big project at work. we had big plans to stay in nice Airbnbs and hotels in Boulder and denver. We were going to see our favorite band at Red Rocks, and indulge in my favorite beer, coors, straight from the source. Not only that, for months we had been practicing building anchors and swapping leads on a makeshift belay station i made in the garage out of two bolts and my squat rack; we were going to attempt our very first multipitch climb.So. We both pulled out our phones. “Well there’s vegas? Maybe we could stop there and climb and stay in a hotel?”. “Actually”, Sam replied, “we could stop in zion too it’s like right off the 15 in Utah, there’s that wall there people like to climb a lot”. She showed me her phone, Namaste Wall. Beautiful red sandstone. After a few more minutes of delibiration, we realized there’s a realistic chance that our replacement flight for the next day would probably be cancelled and that our whole trip would be ruined. Not the kind of couple who’s scared of winging it, we wasted no more time and said “screw it. Let’s rent a car and fly back on our original return flight.” After a shuttle ride to the rental terminal at the airport and some haggling with the salesperson, we hit the road on what Google maps said would be an 18 hour journey.I can’t quite pinpoint what we were feeling at the point, a mix of dissapointment and excitment, a lot to process, but we knew we were in it together. After stopping for all the standard road trip provisions, a few bathroom breaks, fast food, gas, and flying down the familiar 15 freeway through Sin City, we arrived at Zion’s Kolob Canyon entrance. After parking and subjecting a nice older gentleman to the plight of our day, he sympathized and pointed us in the direction we needed to head. Only a few hundred yards into our approach I was taken aback. Wow. Having almost exclusively explored the granite of the Sierra nevada my whole life, the over hanging walls, the red dirt against the green leaves, and the quiet of the canyon all blew me away. It was magic. It was better than I could have dreamed of.My wife and I worked our way up the canyon and found ourselves giddy and awestruck by what we found. Namaste Wall, completely void of another living soul. Fueled by 4 hours of sleep, 8 hours of driving, and some taco bell, I began the lead climb up the wall. The wall, deceptively overhung, made the pump set in quickly. I fell, she caught me, everything was fine. I continued my ascent up one of my most memorable climbs I’ve ever had. Powerful, juggy climbing, just my style. I chuckled at some sleepy bats hidden in some holes on the wall. It was a magical afternoon, sans crowds, with my ride or die at the other end of the rope.As the sun got lower in the sky, we decided it was time to take our leave. Hiking out, bats filled the air, and I couldn’t help but wonder if it was the same ones I saw in their little homes on the wall. The silence of the canyon was broken only by the hauntingly beautiful hooting of owls and the earth under our feet.With the sun still warm, I took my shirt off for the last bit of the hike out, I felt free. I felt unencumbered by fear, deadlines, and cancelled flights. Everything was falling away in the best way possible. We took what could have been a terrible day, and turned it into an incredible one. When we reentered the trailhead parking lot, I laughed at the kids being lightly scolded by their mom for throwing rocks around and hitting things with sticks. The sun was officially setting and the sandstone walls glowed. We sat on the trunk of our rental car with a cold beer and a soggy leftover taco. That’s when it hit me. I dreampt about this place the night before. Not one for spiritualities, and having a slight distate for anything that skews “woo woo”, I teared up. The realization washed over me with a flood of emotions. I hid it from her for a minute. I contemplated how crazy I sounded in my own head. When i couldnt hide it anymore, i broke. “Babe” I told my wife, “I know this is going to sound crazy, but I was here last night. We were supposed to be here today.” Overcome with one of the strangest feelings I’ve ever had, and with my wife staring at me puzzingly, I stopped to collect my thoughts for a moment. I finally let it all out: “The glowing sandstone, the sun I felt on my back, the kids playing in the parking lot, the animals. I’ve never been to a place like this, but I definitely dreamed about it last night…and I was so content…. the happiest I had been in a long time… warm… and then our alarm went off”. Being so out of character for me, she knew it was hard for me to share, I could tell by the look on her face. She smiled softly, put her arm around me, and rested her head on my shoulder.We repacked our gear and drove off into the night; No particular place to stay and broken plans. Happy.
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“Do you live in the Valley?” and Calling Myself a Climber.

March 28th 2025. I’m at this point 31 years old. Two days from now is my birthday. Sam and I have spent the morning in the parking lot at Yosemite lodge, taking turns using the restroom in the cafeteria and buying breakfast burritos while the other clipped lightly worn cams and slings onto our harnesses.

We found climbing late in the game in a post Covid world. By my count we were 28 years old when I first stepped onto the mats at Mesa Rim in San Diego in October of 2021, now our “Third Place” – that place between work and home. Sam had forced me to call in sick for work on her day off – “You have to try this” – knowing me just as well as I know myself.
Now, almost four years later, in this dusty parking lot on a foggy March morning in the year 2025 we found ourselves excited and nervous about our first go at a “Real” trad line in the storied Yosemite Valley. “Real” dirtbags would probably laugh to hear that I call “Munginella” a “Real” trad line, but I’ve never been one to give much of a shit what others think. Sam and I are both hardworking professionals in demanding lines of work. To think these sorts of adventures should only belong to those familiar with the virtues of “van life” seemed silly to me. We do own a van, we don’t “live” in it per say, we sleep in a bed at home most nights, but I like to think Life happens where this van takes us. It’s an ’03 Ford Econoline with a broken sliding door and a pristine 5.4L V8 under the hood.
A year prior to this birthday trip, we had taken on a two week road trip, expending all my hard earned PTO for one remarkable journey across the American west – NV, UT, CO, WY, and culminating in our first visit to Yosemite Valley.

No stranger to the Eastern Sierra, having logged nearly 100 nights in the area, this still happened to be our first visit to The Valley. You ever mourn the fact you had never partaken in something before? For years I swore off Yosemite for the less crowded and less featured trails of the east side, typically seeking solitude. “I’ll see it when I do the JMT one day” I would use as an excuse, but this climbing thing found us and I had been slowly piecing together a trad rack, or at least what I thought a trad rack should look like, for over six months before this trip.
When we arrived at our campsite in May 2024 I immediately noticed the glances shot in our direction when our dirty, old, murdery looking van, which had seen 2,000 miles of snow and mud and adventure over the previous two weeks, squeaked into the, shockingly small to me, camp spot. They came from a woman in the spot directly neighboring ours. After an awkward moment of eye contact I gave a “Hello”, a smile, and a wave. She replied “Are you guys climbers?” as our dog Cricket inspected the woman from the safety of the van. And I replied with a relieved chuckle and a “Well sort of!”. It happened to be that the members of this campsite were part of the Southern California Mountaineers Association and that “Everyone is going home today” except for one gentleman named Chris, a guide on this trip.
When Chris returned from climbing “The Grack” later that afternoon the woman eagerly introduced us. I coyly admitted that I had what was almost a single rack of cams and nuts. Knowing what I know now, Chris probably looked at it and chuckled internally. Chris had a kind face, hardened and disguised by a young adult life of sleeping in the back of his camping contraption, “half truck half sheet metal”, he explained to me. “Welp, you guys want to learn some things then? Everyone is going home today and I’m here for two more nights”. I eagerly took him up on the offer, secondhandedly dragging Sam into the world of Trad climbing. He agreed that he would take us to the base of the Glacier Point Apron the following morning. 6am sharp. Some mysterious force, or a bad habit of spending money on shiny new toys, had me put together this trad rack – and I think this was why.
Chris spent six hours the following morning drilling us in a way that I can only assume comes from 40+ years of traditional climbing experience. “Slam it in there, don’t think about it too much. Good. that only took you 10 minutes, you only need to cut that down by oh…. 9 minutes”. He methodically had us building anchors without certain pieces available to us, without certain cracks available to us. The sun chased away the shadows and we all began to sweat, but we kept at it.
At the end of it all, as we started to pack away our gear, I think he could see the special relationship Sam and I have, we love this shit, we don’t fully understand it, but we fully understand each other, and we both fully understand that the other loves this shit. I credit Chris with framing our mindset and guiding our budding Trad climbing career down the right path. “I’m 60 years old, you guys are way stronger than me and can climb way harder than me, you can do this stuff”. He lifts his gaze, first towards Glacier Point and then towards the Valley behind us, and with a sweeping arm says “Treat trad climbing as way to get somewhere beautiful, to have an adventure, to have a great day”. I recognized that was years of wisdom talking. A sincere thanks for that, Chris. We shared a campfire and a lot of stories with Chris that night, a great time. I’ll be forever grateful for the experience.
Fast forward again to two days before my 32nd birthday. Now we are at the base of Munginella. A three pitch 5.6 with a heady roof as the crux of the route on the second pitch, as described by Mountain Project.
“Do you live in the Valley?” asks one of the two girls, early twenties, who guided us to the base of the climb when they saw Sam and I stumbling around looking for the start. “No, were from San Diego, just visiting for his birthday” Sam replies. I thought it was a funny question to ask, but maybe we looked the part. “You two can go ahead” Sam and I both insisted after learning the girls both in fact, lived in the Valley. “Maybe we can copy their beta” we both agreed. The idea of waiting even longer and letting the nervousness build bothered both of us, but so be it.

Waiting at the base of the climb It quickly became apparent we shouldn’t be as nervous as we were first inclined to be. After an hour of waiting at the base of the climb I look up to see the two girls tossing their rope in a tree that I was pretty sure stopped 30 feet short of the top of the first pitch. “Uh oh”, I said as I tend to do when things look like they are going sideways, typically when I am cruxing out and about to take a whipper. Then Sam turned just in time to watch the whole fiasco unfold, the girl seconding the pitch flung herself to the base of the same tree and gave it a big bear hug. “oh my god.” Sam said in disbelief. “We should probably go help them” I said.
That’s when my bad ass wife started up the first pitch. Smooth sailing all the way to this girl bear hugging a tree. At this point she was a tangle of rope, tree, and emotions. Her partner was mid crux on the money pitch, shouting “Watch me!”. “I don’t know what that means!” she exclaimed, “It means watch her here, she might fall” Sam explained. Sam managed to unwind the rope and help calm the frantic belayer and see her off and up the second pitch before finding the actual belay and bringing me up.

“Good job babe” I said. “That looked like a mess”. “Yea, she was sort of freaking out, that was probably not safe”. In a way, the whole fiasco calmed me down. “We belong here” I told myself. No, we don’t live in the valley, but we know what we are doing. The whole situation gave us the confidence to tackle the next two pitches. Leading the second pitch, clipping an old piton, placing my own protection, building an anchor, and watching Sam soar up and disappear over the top of the final pitch – on our first “Real” Trad climb – will be something I always remember.

That night, with our rack on the table, a cold beer in my hand, and a fire starting to lick the air of the dark, smoky campground, I felt a sense of pride. I had carried a weight, self imposed I suppose. Prior to this moment I hadn’t felt like I could call myself a “climber” yet. I don’t want it to sound like you aren’t a climber until you’ve climbed Trad, some people never do – that’s not the point. You should set goals, though, ones that align with the aspects of your life that most align with you and your experiences; I think that’s what makes you a climber. – Moe

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